![]() The lamps were small–about the size of a Xenon flash-bulb in a still camera, held in a water-chamber constantly supplied with cold water, with a tiny mirror, there was a quartz window on the other side. Philips did exactly that in the early ’60’s for FP-20S pulse-lamp 35mm cinema projectors. –The idea above to run a pulsed-lamp for film projection isnt new. Gonna be trying this–with a 35mm projector soon…. I’m thinking of using a high-power LED like the one in the article to replace the 150w projection lamp, replacing the drive motor with something in better condition (after 46 years, it seems the motor isn’t firing on all cylinders and struggles a bit when winding 400′ reels), adding a speed selector/tuning knob, all tied together with a microcontroller for PWM, etc…Īfter reading some of these responses I was curious about the optocoupler design idea, but when I took a look inside there’s no easy way to decouple the worm gear shaft from the shutter mechanism (that drives the winding sprockets for the film feed mechanism).Īnyway, it’s great to see I’m not the only one who thinks about fixing up old super8 projectors. I’ve been a fan of super8 films for a while and this isn’t my main projector, so I’m thinking it’s ripe for a hack (I have a mix of 24 and 18fps films in my collection). I’m thinking of attempting a similar hack on a Bell & Howell Autoloader 357B super8 projector I have laying around.Įssentially, this model is more or less in working order and is a pretty clean example, but unfortunately it lacks speed control (18/24 fps). A bit of hot-melt later, and I had a huge improvement on the picture quality of the original projector, with the added bonus of a much cooler lamp (so no chance of melting film if it gets stuck!)… Now I had an electronic switch that turned on and off in sync with the film’s motion, so I just knocked up a MOSFET driver to the LED and wired in a 5V DC power supply for the whole thing. So, I cut out a part of the disc corresponding to the part of the cycle where the film was moving, and mounted the light-gate such that the disc passed through the middle of it. I noticed that the shaft turned 360 degrees once per frame, and about 2/3 of the travel was during the “dwell” time, in which the film was stationary. ![]() Next up, I added an infra-red light gate and a cardboard disc to the rear of the projector, on the drive shaft. I mounted it with hot glue to meccano, and bolted it into the case where the bulb mount used to be. I replaced the bulb with a 2W LED, and was very pleased to note that the light just covered the film gate (which is very small with 8mm, of course!), making for a very efficient projector. I had a projector that was quite cheap, and didn’t have any means for stopping the light while the film was moving across the frame. Posted in LED Hacks Tagged 8mm, 8mm projector, high power LED, led, movie projector Post navigation Right now, there’s still the matter of fabricating a nice enclosure to mount the LED and charger in the bulb socket, but once figures that out, he’ll have a very nice 8mm projector on his hands. ![]() To power the LED, used a cell phone charger powered from the 120 VAC incandescent socket to supply the requisite 5 Volts at 1 Amp (Ohm’s Law works on coffee) power for the LED. This 1 Watt LED puts out more than enough light to project a frame of film onto a screen and fortunately doesn’t get as hot as the stock bulb. To replace the burnt-out and very expensive to replace incandescent bulb, sourced a very bright star LED from Jameco. has been getting into 8mm cameras and projectors, so when he came across a 8mm/super 8 projector that needed a bulb, he knew he had a worthwhile project on his hands. There’s a certain mystique about old home movies and 8mm film whether it’s footage from a family gathering from 40 years ago or a stop-motion animation you made when you were 12, there’s an immediacy for film that the VHS tapes from your family’s first camcorder can’t match. ![]()
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